Collaborative
Turkey Journal
June 16-30, 2006 |
| Friday,
June 16 & Saturday, June 17 --- LET THE ADVENTURE BEGIN!... |
| The
Ohio contingent gathered at church on time (a good omen for
the coming days). British Air is definitely the way to go -
- -charming people, smooth connections and GOOD FOOD (Why can’t
the US airlines manage that?!). Fifteen hours later, flying
in over the Black Sea and Bosphorous we had our first view of
Istanbul from the air. Quickly navigating customs we were met
by Iris (our official guide, and unofficial worrier, mother
and teacher for the next 2 weeks). Driving along the Marmara
Sea, we entered Istanbul through the old city gates arriving
at the hotel, to find our East Coast Co-Travelers waiting at
curbside. We walked/gawked our way to an exquisite garden restaurant
for our welcome dinner (wonderful phyllo cheese pies, grape
leaves and Turkish pastries)... We fell asleep to the sounds
of Turkey (windows open/no screens/no bugs) - - - drums and
flutes, boats waiting passage through the Bosphorous, and the
final evening call to prayer. |
We
left the hotel early to climb the narrow stoned streets with
shops just opening and men sitting at small tables on the sidewalk
drinking their tea or coffee. We navigated the steep steps on
the sidewalk under window boxes of flowers and balconies that
protruded from the buildings. Our reward at the top of the hill
was to see St. Sophia on the right and the Blue Mosque to our
left. With a bright clear sky above, long early morning shadows
fell from the gardens of both holy places creating an air of
awe.
Morning vendors, one balancing a tray of bread resembling on
his head, others selling postcards and booklets were busy already.
Iris gathered us around her giving history, information, and
specific details to observe. By the time we reached the Underground
Cistern we realized the day was going to be warm. We welcomed
the coolness as we entered the vast depths of the cistern and
its high multi-arched ceiling.
Rows of tall regal columns, lit at the base, a long wooden walkway
just above the water, and an occasional drip from the ceiling’s
condensation created a dramatic effect of ancient timelessness.
We followed a long passage through the cistern’s massive
arched columns. A platform angled off revealing a unique column,
with unusual swirling designs on it. It was there we saw large
fish in the water and a sign explaining that they kept the water
clean by eating the algae. Further on at the end of the walkway
were two other unusual columns. A mysterious stylized head of
Medusa was at each of their bases, one head was upside down
while the other one was placed sideways. Were the ancient architects
playing a joke or was there another reason?
Returning to the heat and sunshine of the day, we ventured over
to the St. Sophia Cathedral. Dating back to the Byzantine era
this structure was once the center of the Eastern Christian
church, comparable to the Vatican in Rome. The huge wooden doors
had been used before in another ancient structure and contained
symbols of Apollo along with the cross. Iris pointed out other
symbols borrowed from long ago beliefs. The grandeur of the
building – its flying buttresses, dignified heavy columns,
tall arched windows, high domed ceilings, wide balcony, various
colored marble walls, intricate mosaic pictures of Mary, Jesus,
and early Christian rulers – shared space with many massive
disks of Moslem calligraphy added later. This was an impressive
building, full of heritage and tradition, inside as well as
outside.
The Islamic Arts Museum displayed rugs, calligraphy, sarcophaguses,
porcelain, armor, and war equipment through the ages of great
rulers and nomadic tribes. Iris’s explanations of the
symbolism on rugs and other objects along with the written information
gave us an appreciation and a sense of varied cultures and history.
The high balcony of the museum overlooked an obelisk in the
hippodrome and provided us with a side view of the Blue Mosque.
Due to time we grabbed a fast lunch. Some chose shish kabobs
from a street vendor and others ate a salad in a café
patio with Iris, who hustled into kitchen speeding up our service.
We quickly boarded our air-conditioned bus to head to Chora
Church, now the Kariye Museum, with its amazing mosaics. This
early church’s detailed artwork honored Mary depicting
her sacred life along with Jesus’.
From there we cruised the Bosphorus observing the crowded hillsides
loaded with many architectural features on the European and
Asian sides. Amazing were the numerous and varied freighters
traveling this major water connection from the Black Sea to
the Aegean Sea and beyond. Different mosques, industrial areas,
long bridges, and fortresses gave a sampling of life in Turkey.
Ending our trip on Asian soil, we wandered through a seaside
market with small shops, an open-air restaurant, a boy pushing
a cart full of produce along the stone street, a glass case
containing iced, fresh fish for sale. Turning the corner and
climbing a hill we stopped at a market displaying fresh vegetables
that Iris helped up identify.
We indulged in an ice cream cone before boarding the bus to
go to Lale and Tankut’s apartment for dinner. In route
we saw the commercial district for wedding dresses. A wide variety
of ornate gowns – most for brides, but a few for mothers
and attendants – were displayed in second story windows.
The multitude and showiness of the gowns in a Moslem nation
surprised us. As if on cue, several cars passed wrapped from
front bumper to trunk with a white or a red bunting. Crowded
in the back seat sat a bride and groom!
Once at Lale and Tankut’s fourth floor condo, we took
our shoes off, toured their city home, and relaxed. Lale’s
simple dinner really was a banquet. We enjoyed sampling soft
cheeses, yogurts, vegetable dishes, kibbe, breads, salads, crackers,
grape leaf wrapped meat, fruits, and baklava. Our gracious hosts
made us comfortable and answered our many questions. For Bill
and Sharon it was a reunion with the guides from their first
trip to Turkey. |
This
was a jam-packed day of contrasts – the drama and intrigue
of Topkapi Palace, the peacefulness of the Blue Mosque, the
frenzy of the Grand Bazaar, and the spirituality of the whirling
dervishes.
Another beautiful day began with our visit to Topkapi Palace.
Through the Imperial Gate we entered a world of intrigue –
eunuchs, concubines, wives, sultans – and all the stories
and drama that went with them. The harem had private apartments,
the largest being that of the queen mother. Beautiful tiles
decorated the rooms. Pavilions were built in the courtyards
and in the third courtyard was the treasury. Inside the treasury
were jewels valued more than England’s crown jewels. Displayed
were John the Baptists’s skull and hand(?).
Lunch at the palace was one terrace overlooking the Bosporus
and the Golden Horn – both learned about many years ago
and now brought to life.
Changing gears, we covered our heads, took off our shoes, and
entered the Blue Mosque. Blue tiles everywhere! People were
praying as we took in this vast space – men in the main
area and women in a small area behind. This is truly a beautiful
mosque, both inside and out.
The Grand Bazaar – WOW!! Pretty much sums up this covered
market. It’s a virtual maze of shops selling everything
imaginable. “Buy something you don’t need!”
and “Am I next?” were shouted out to us as we passed
by jewelry, souvenirs, bone boxes, rugs, clothing – you
name it, it was there! It’s a bit overwhelming but fun,
especially when you begin to bargain. It was almost a relief
to leave the bazaar and sit outside, but how could you miss
this part of Turkish life?
Our day of contrast continued when Lale brought a friend for
a “Q and A” about Sufism and the whirling dervishes,
which some of us were to see this evening. This was quite interesting
and helped us understand the ritual which brings one to a higher
level.
After dinner we took the bus to a neighborhood where we walked
through narrow streets to a building where empty coffins representing
Sufi leaders were seen through windows. The men in our group
were sent downstairs while the women went upstairs. After removing
our shoes and covering our heads, we sat on the floor behind
a screen where we could look down on the floor below. This segregation
of the women, while strange to Americans, seemed like being
transported to another time and it was appropriate for this
setting. However, we were invited to sit downstairs to see the
dervishes.
Music and chanting began followed by the entrance of the dervishes
wearing tall, brown felt hats and black robes over white shirts
and skirts.
The whirling, done in four sections, was amazing! You could
see the trance-like state the men were in as they whirled. There
is a definite pattern to their footsteps and to their movement
around the floor. Heads are tilted, one hand is turned up and
one turned down. Between each of the four sections, the dervishes
would greet each other and the two older men who watched. It
was very easy to see how one could become mesmerized by the
whirling. The chanting and music became louder and more of the
seated men swayed and moved their heads to the beat of the music.
The louder and faster the chant, the more the men swayed until
the ritual slowed and ended.
What an experience and an honor to observe this ritual. This
was truly a highlight of the trip! |
This
morning we flew to Cappadocia by way of Kayseri. This region
is famous for its weird geological formations and cave houses.
We were introduced to our driver Mesut and the big white bus.
We headed off to our hotel, the Greekhouse in Mustafapasa. This
is a delightful old mansion where the Greek mayor of the town
lived until the 1920s. Suleyman’s family, who own the
hotel, had a tiny white puffball of a kitten that pretty much
ran the place.
We ate a delicious lunch – Suleyman’s wife is a
wonderful cook – and set out for the Goreme Open Air Museum.
The “museum” is a monastic settlement that dates
from about 1000 AD. We went into several of the cave churches
that had carved-out domes and decorative columns as well as
crude red-painted artwork. The last church we visited was the
newest and the biggest. It was well preserved, with complex
frescoes that had a bright-blue background.
On our return to the hotel we stopped at an overlook too see
a huge rock jutting up from the ground that was all carved out-
like an ancient high-rise apartment building. They do like the
high-rise! There was also a camel that you could take a ride
on.
That night we had a village-style dinner – all of us sitting
on pillows around two round tables. More delicious food was
served – this was my favorite food of the whole trip –
and we tried some of the regional wines. After a couple of days
in Istanbul, it was nice to be out in the countryside and see
a very different part of Turkey. |
| What
a day! It began with a certificate and ended on one! Up at 4
a.m. with others for a bumpy, curvy van trip to Goreme for a
balloon ascension. Coffee and a biscuit warmed while watching
two balloons being filled with air and warmed with propane.
A tight fit into the basket for 8 plus the pilot and then up
and away. The air was filled with about 7 other balloons dipping
and rising. Brushed bushes and tree tops then whooshed into
space as the land dropped away and we found ourselves suspended
over narrow tree-lined canyons which dot the valley of Cappadocia. |
| The
sun rose glinting between fairy chimneys of tofa (ash and compost
hardened into pumice-like rock toped with lava rocks). Interesting
landing, bouncing on a squash patch. Farmer astride a braying
donkey came to check the damage (none, if there had been a small
fine would have been levied on our pilot). After celebrating
with a glass of champagne, a few pictures and a handshake with
our very able pilot (although he confided it was his first day
we suspected otherwise), we piled back into a van to return
to the Greek House to share a healthy breakfast with the rest
of the Turkey travelers. |
| Suleyman,
our innkeeper, escorted us on a village walk after breakfast.
When an elderly woman opened her door to step outside Suleyman
asked if we could explore her home – 3 houses cobbled
together to enable generations to live together. She invited
us to walk into her root cellar carved into the ground –
very cool. In typical Turkish hospitality fashion she insisted
everyone take an apple from the cellar (harvested last fall
and still fresh). Poor woman had lost her 20-year-old grandson
in an accident very recently. Walked through a building now
housing a teachers’ school. Suleyman demonstrated custom
of turning a column beside the outside door to determine if
the building sustained any earthquake damage. The column is
to the side of the door and fastened by pins at the top and
bottom to the stone building. If the column can turn the pins
are good and the building hasn’t settled. Rest of village
walk was up and down but mostly UP! Town patterned after the
Greek Acropolis, hillside homes, and town center below. Surprise
stop at a Garden Café in a canyon – cold drinks
all around as we sit midway up a canyon wall in large cave entrance.
Honor system to put coins in to replace drinks and nuts taken
from the frig. |
| Then
on to Goreme Open Air Museum – a wonder of the world.
Caves, churches, kitchens all carved in the hillside –
country churches. Simple but beautiful. Entered one church (originally
had been two but wall in-between had been removed) and picked
out miracles from the Bible as painted on the walls and ceilings.
Face of Mary with lovely eyes was arresting. |
| Off
again to another village to visit Fahriye – a woman living
with her mother (about 74) and father (deaf, no teeth) and taking
care of her l ½ year old grandson. Neighbor lady helped
serve lunch as we sat in their summer room overlooking the valley.
The family owns a vineyard but it looks like a hard life. She
welcomed our questions while her father remarked that we women
were dressed very conservatively!. |
| Reluctant
to see the evening end, many of the group decided to visit the
“Mall” in the center of the village where the son
of the owner promised to demonstrate the water pipe. Great fun
– Diane was arrayed in dancer’s costume and many
others took a turn dancing to music supplied by a townsman who
dropped by. Others experimented with the delights of the Turkish
pipe. After a major shopping spree all adjourned to the local
tavern and sampled the local beverages. A short stroll brought
us back to the Greek House and bed. |
| What
a way to celebrate the Summer Solstice! |
Most
of us are finding the olive/bread/jam/cheese combinations we
most like. I favor cherry jam on soft Italian style bread. Only
Barbarians eat olives for breakfast.
11 of us bused to river hike. Much climbing gravel-ee 6’
hills---fast! Suleyman makes us keep our eyes on our feet. Finally
Iris usurps the power; we can take eyes off our feet. (Priscilla”we
know what our ft. look like.”) We see holes in 30’
walls & rows of pigeon houses.
The river we follow is a mere trickle, but gives enough H2O
for trees & shade. Purple fuzzy wildflower like sm. Snapdragon,
orange poppies, stinging nettles, goosefoot, sm. poplars. A
sq. of stones marked a carbonated spring. Barbara, Al, &
Joan drank and received extra powers of clairvoyance which I’ve
always thought would be handy.
Then narrow path widened into 2 tractor wheel path. Some parts
smooth stone w/ H2O carved rivulets, 60% mud, 20% oozing over
our shoes mud. We fought off huge snake.
Mesut broomed our muddy feet before we boarded bus to proceed
to Avanos where we got stuck on bridge not wide enough for bus-truck
to pass. Truck should have yielded but ended up backing out
with 6 cars which had naively followed.
Kaymakli is a maze of caves occupied for over 4 K years. We
felt like mice in tunnels which opened into 8’x10’
rooms w/ various niches in walls & huge round foot thick
doors which could be closed to keep invaders out. Some leaders
gave “foreigners” a bad rep. Good-bye to cones &
caves, hello broad grasslands (wheat & oats) w/ mtns in
background.
We are heading for Guzelyurt We meet our first herd of cattle,
ON THE ROAD! “At least they’re staying in their
own lane” Diane. Two lil’ girls on a donkey follow
the herder.
Our hotel is maximum quaint…church like dining room, adjoining
20’x60’ nave, airy vaulted ceiling, has 8 rooms
on each side. Some(mine) has small vestibule w/ door to bath
& winding hanging staircase. On second floor is dorm like
setting. I’m in a fire station? There’s a pool.
Good buffet dinner-we all sat together at very long table. Setting
favored conversation so we stayed until 10-ish. We are all getting
along very well…no one too talkative or too quiet.
Fav. sightings...most involve overloaded donkey or horse carts.
And dogs. I have fur craving. And ceilings! Signing off... this
is Joan Kamm. Thank you all for
your generous spirits & love. |
| It
makes you realize how truly young our surroundings are, when
everything around us is ancient and/or recycled. We awoke to
the roughness of sundried linens in very lovely rooms with foot
and a half deep walls and bars on the windows. For the first
time this trip, I did not hear the early call to prayer. Just
glad that I didn’t have to deal with a midnight trip down
the circular stairs in the double decker room. |
| Although
the inactive volcano is visible in the distance , the dependence
on building with tufa is less than in Mustafapasha. There is
a greater abundance of underground cities in the area including
an arched stairway in the town square that leads to (what is
now) an eating area underground. |
| On
the way to Konya, we stop in a short time at a caravan serai
(Sultanhani-13th century Selchuk) that were traditionally a
day’s walk apart (5-15 km). This particular one has been
restored and is more elaborate than many. The caravan serai
were a free fortress for travelers to wait to form a caravan
going the same direction between Europe and the Middle East.
The thick walls provided protection and coolness. |
| We
continued on a long flat drive through wheat fields and migrant
tents to Konya , very industrial and conservative city. Our
hotel is a lovely urban hotel, although our luck with electrical
systems has not been great and the air conditioner has not been
as effective for us as just opening the window. Once again ,
we have a system that requires us to put our keys in the slot
to turn on the electricity. One of the nice amenities at this
hotel is free internet access and although accessing is not
always easy, it is great to read and leave messages for home. |
| By
the way, I let my kids know that I had a lovely birthday yesterday
between singing on our 5 mile hike and the candlelit cake after
supper. The hotel manager gave me a comic T-shirt from the hotel.
Thanks to all of you for the surprise! |
| Collective
memories from Marge & Nancy |
The
schedule said Pamukkale but wow it was so much more!
The morning started where our trip began with a discussion of
sufism. A short walk from our hotel brought us to the Mevlana
Museum. One of the world’s great mystic philosophers was
Rumi, later known as Mevlana or ‘Our Guide’ to his
followers. Although sufism is not talked about much in Islam,
Mevlana has been credited with bringing the values of a God
of love and compassion to the religion. He promoted the ideal
of brotherly compassion and love.
I’m reminded that I have a volume of Rumi’s poems
and vow to find it when I get back.
The Museum was easy to spot with its fluted dome of turquoise
tiles. There was a bit of a crowd and Iris had her work cut
out for her getting us through the many Turkish tourists.
Inside is Mevlana’s sarcophagus (he died in 1273) along
with other eminent dervishes.
The whirling dervish ceremony is actually a mevlevi worship
ceremony representing union with God. The ceremony starts with
a prayer for Mevlana and a verse from the Koran. After three
circuits around the hall the dervishes drop their black cloaks
to symbolize deliverance from worldly attachments and spin as
they relinquish earthly life to be reborn in mystical union
with God. With arms folded on their breasts to symbolize submission
they move out into the floor and begin to whirl. By holding
their right arms up, they receive the blessings of heaven, which
are communicated to earth by holding their left arms turned
down. The ceremony ends with chanting of passages from the Koran
which signifies the sealing of the mystical union with God.
We soon had to leave to drive to Pamukkale. Many cherry trees
and almost as many roadside stands selling cherries. And the
poppy fields! We did have a nice stop for solid yogurt sold
with honey dribbled over it! Everyone’s sweet tooth is
satisfied! We see migrant workers in tents made for families.
And then Pammukkale – looking like a cotton fortress from
afar.
I remember the pictures of gleaming white calcium formations
(travertine pools) from posters of Turkey and here we stand
looking right at them. No wonder it is a UNESCO World Heritage-listed
site. The warm mineral water, cascading over the cliff edge
has cooled and deposited calcium forming shelves, pools and
stalactites.
Of course Romans knew a good tourist attraction when they saw
one and built Hierapolis to take advantage of the water’s
curative powers. Founded around 190 BC by the King of Pergamum
it was a cure center hosting a large Jewish community and early
Christian congregation. Earthquakes took a toll on the city
and after one in 1334 the locals apparently called it a day
and left. However it was interesting to walk the ruins of the
city streets, pass through their many gates and see the coffins
that people had made up for themselves even before their demise.
Sort of pre-paid funeral system I guess. Up a steep hill is
a roman theater with seating for more than 12,000.
A short drive down the hill brought us to present day Pamukkale
village. A modern hotel with pool awaited us. Here we found
the red spa – the hotel boasted a rock cone about 7 feet
high with iron laden sulfur water seeping down into a small
round pool. Nice place to sit and watch the fireworks (celebrating
perhaps a wedding or two) Of course we all had to rinse the
bathing suits out with the water running a dark shade of red.
Marge and Barb experienced a Turkish Bath (rafia scrub, suds
and rub/rinse) with HOT water. A massage with baby oil insured
that they slept well that night. As did we all. |
Jarron
and Kristi started the day with a swim, while Sharon took advantage
of the flatness of the valley to run. Most of us enjoyed a leisurely
start to the day. The beds were rather hard, but we slept well
after the fireworks and music from the wedding celebration going
on nearby.
Our first stop was at a textile outlet for a 15 minute stop.
One hour later we got back on the bus with our “treasures”.
Kristi waited outside and befriended a beautiful puppy. The
dogs and cats of Turkey have been as welcoming as the people!
Our next stop, only 1 km away was Laodocia – a city mentioned
in scripture. There is literally nothing standing there but
a few stones. They are beginning to be put together so you can
get a little idea of what things might have looked like at some
point in time during the life of the community. One needs to
realize there were almost always at least three or four different
cultures that would have built on the same site. Iris told us
about the prediction in Revelation that if the folks of Laodocia
there didn’t change their ways, their town would be destroyed.
Well, so have most other towns of that time, so I’m not
convinced that the prophecy was fulfilled. Still, it was fascinating
to see what evidence there is of the civilization that once
existed there – clean water system and sewers, places
of worship, businesses and leisure, homes of the wealthy, as
well as an amphitheater for thousands of people. In this age
of home theatre centers in every house, it was delightful to
see how important community was these people. In most cities
there was a theatre, an Odeon for musical performances and another
gathering place for political concerns to be addressed. The
citizens came from the surrounding areas to attend performances
and talks. It must have encouraged participation by all in a
way we fail to do today.
One member of the tour (name withheld to protect from prosecution
in case ‘borrowing’ tile fragments is illegal) pulled
some stone and tile fragments that were visible as part of the
loose dirt wall. They were two different types of ceramic. One
wonders if they were pottery of some kind from thousands or
hundreds of years ago. The site was filled with this material.
It gave me a sense of the challenge and excitement one must
feel when participating on an archeological dig. Each new civilization
built on top of the old one and used the fallen stones, no matter
how beautiful or well carved for filler as paving stones or
whatever need they might have.
We drove then to Aphrodisias and had lunch. Wonderful warm pita
type bread was served along with salad, mushrooms and cheese,
and meat and cheese pizza like dishes. During the time we were
entertained by a man playing a stringed instrument called a
saz, similar to the mandolin. His parrot was “singing”
along and did tricks like getting a sugar cube out of a tall
glass. He refused to eat the cube until the musician put some
water in the glass. It was fun to see them work together.
After lunch I retired to the WC, a delightful place with showers
and commodes, but also a trellis with greenery and flowing water.
It was very clean and all done in marble. After using the facilities,
I flushed and while watching most of my work go down, was startled
to see a long thin black shaped object trying to climb out!
It seems I was sharing the commode with a small salamander!
Welcome to Turkey – always filled with unexpected surprises.
We had a fascinating tour of Aphrodisias, a Greco-Roman site
with temples, schools, a stadium and much more. This is a famous
site worked on by one archeologist for 30 years until his death
– Kenan Erin. The site is slowly being uncovered and where
possible being reconstructed. We stopped at an Odeon, a covered
area originally where music was performed. Iris “encouraged”
me to sing something, so I said a prayer and then led the group
in responsively singing the Lord’s Prayer. Iris also invited
me to “say something,” but I declined the offer
since this is vacation and I was also worried about a rainstorm
that was closing in on us.
I was amazed to experience rain – it was a Turkey first
for Sharon and me. We are used to bright sun and cloudless days.
The rain cooled things off a bit and settled the dust. It was
appreciated by us all – locals and travelers alike. I
am amazed by how much difference there is in temperatures by
simply being out of the sun. Being inside, under a tree or even
under the protection of a trellis can drop the temperatures
significantly. When we toured with Suleyman, the owner of the
Greek house, our hotel in Mustafapasha, he could always be found
standing in the shade. No wonder! The direct sun light is oppressive.
Again the driving portion of the trip, now heading to Kusadasi,
was beautiful. Iris is very informative and gives us in depth
knowledge of whatever topic we think to ask about. We bid farewell
to Jarron and Kristi who are going south to do a cruise. They
will meet up with us on Thursday in Istanbul.
The land is hilly and filled with trees, a welcome sight after
so many days of rocks and fields. This is a land with so many
variations that each day dispels another myth and brings more
surprises. We are also thankful to have Mesut, our driver, who
handles the mountain and city driving with great skill and calm.
We ended the day in Kusadasi, a resort city on the Aegean Sea
near Ephesus. We enjoy the view from our hotel balconies and
the feel of city life again. The only challenge here is the
hill we must walk up from the waterfront to get to our hotel.
It does not stop many of us from going out for a nice dinner
by the shore. A wonderful ending to another wonderful day. |
From
my balcony, high up, I can overlook Kusadasi and the Aegean.
I feel as if I am in one those 1950’s movies such as “To
Catch a Thief”. This is a truly gorgeous resort town stretching
out for miles. As I watch the cruise ships coming in I am sad
to realize in a short time, or maybe already, this beautiful
place will be just another Cancun like tourist trap.
Breakfast was further proof of this feeling. Among the offerings
was scrambled eggs and French toast. We are getting closer to
a Denny’s grand slam breakfast.
Leaving our hotel for our daily journey we make a quick stop
at the Artemis Temple, one of the seven wonders of the ancient
world. Like many other sites we have seen, a nearby Mosque of
the 13th century has been built from the ruins of this temple.
The site is today a swamp surrounded by short walls and one
pillar supporting a lone stork’s nest.
Our next stop is to the home of the Virgin Mary. Though one
has to question whether this is the exact site, the knowledge
that this general area is the location of the Virgin Mary’s
final home inspires a feeling of awe. The entire site is small
and delicate, a truly serene place. Many of us filled bottles
of water at the well here.
Next we stop at Ephesus. HUGE! The main street easily stretches
for a half mile. The marble road is nearly as long. As far as
we can see, stones mark areas awaiting there turn to be excavated.
As our bus leaves the site, the ruins appear to be following
us. The size of this city is hard to imagine.
After a quick lunch at a locale cafeteria, we stop at the Ephesus
museum. Here we viewed many small and fragile items, as well
as a collection of statuary. Security was of interest here.
We were unable to look closely at the coin collection because
there was no guard to escort us and windows throughout had large
holes in them.
In the late afternoon we arrived back at the hotel. Many of
us hit the swimming pool and enjoyed the sea breezes that make
Kusadasi an attractive site for cruise ships.
For supper we all head for the main street along the beach.
Here I notice for the first time familiar western music, everything
from rap to the oldies. Though the hustlers outside most businesses
are quite annoying, the ordinary folks in the grocery store
are as friendly as could be.
So ends one more day on this wonderful trip. |
Tuesday
began with a leisurely, 9:30, bus departure to a small mountain
village, Sirince – Almost Cute. Originally these Turkish
villagers lived in Greece and were part of a political exchange
with the Greeks who once lived in this village. In route from
Kusadasi, we passed high rise apartments, the multicolored tubes
of two huge water parks, parachuters landing in a small airport,
and hillsides full of olive, peach, quince, and pear trees terraced
and framed with a protective half circle of rocks. An occasional
tethered horse or line of bee boxes were tucked along the hair
pin turns as the bus shifted gears up the mountain.
Once in Sirince our bus barely squeezed through the lower buildings.
Parked, we walked the twisted narrow shop lined streets with
vendors asking us to look or taste their wares – wine,
purses, soaps, jewelry, and table clothes. Iris identified dried
spices and soup mixes telling of their properties and how to
use them. We zigzagged up stone streets to the abandoned Greek
Orthodox Church. On uneven steps we passed terraced rose gardens
to a high courtyard with the Virgin Mary standing in the center
of a fountain.
To one side of the courtyard we were able to enter a home that
was being remodeled. Inside there was a small kitchen with a
two burner stove, one of the other two rooms had a stairway
leading down to the lower floor. Back in the courtyard there
was a café with Coke umbrellas overlooking the opposite
hillside filled with two-story, Greek styled homes looking like
white bee hive boxes with long rectangular windows and wooden
doors.
A once blue wall led us into the church. Carved above the thick
wooden doors, an ancient Greek passage greeted us as we went
down a few steps in to an empty church. The ceiling had several
small domes; the center one still had its painted design. New
balconies were along the back. In the front several niches in
the side chapels still had frescos now protected by clear plastic
window. The restoration of this Orthodox Church is being sponsored
by a Lima, Ohio group. What a small world!
We were on our own for lunch. Our group ate overlooking the
entrance to the village bazaar area accompanied by a kitten,
who knew we would willingly share our meal with it. Several
lunches included a glass of ‘ayran’, a liquid yogurt.
Some drank it while others used it as a dip for their spinach
or meat pastries. Dessert was a huge succulent peach. Once finished
with lunch we had a short time to wrap up our shopping before
heading back to our hotel.
On the way down the mountain we stopped to photo what was originally
thought to be part of an aqueduct. Closer inspection revealed
it was the partial stone wall of an old structure that had arched
openings. We wondered what stories it held of the past.
Down in town, some of the group went to the Tuesday Market while
others stayed at the hotel to rest, lounge by the pool, or go
to the Lady’s Beach. The Market had an assortment of booths
and items to sale. Fresh produce – various types of tomatoes,
peppers, cucumbers, and lettuces – was arranged to attract
the buyer. Stacks of grape leaves were held in place by a green
pepper so the wind would not scatter them. Different types of
honey and pomegranate oil filled some booths. Others contained
potted flowers or herb plants while some sold dried herbs and
spices. Pots, pans, tea glasses, plastic containers, toys, and
all kinds of clothes were other options to purchase.
Women pulled wire carts filled with plastic bags of produce.
Only a few children accompanied shopping parents, but a number
of youngsters helped their families to sell goods. A few vendors
napped in the heat, some drank tea being served by a boy with
a hanging tray, while others actively worked the passing crowd.
For dinner , we were lured to two different fresh fish restaurants.
In both places we could pick our own fish from an iced case,
have it weighed to determine the price, and it was then prepared
to order. Dining on the water’s edge with fishing crawlers
loaded with nets close our table added atmosphere to the occasion.
After dinner on our walk back to the hotel, we realized the
streets had come alive with people and activity. A few shop
owners were still inviting us to look and buy. At one point
we walked in front of a group of men, sitting on folding chairs
at the edge of the sidewalk with their backs to the street,
cheering the World Cup Soccer game on a small tv screen. The
feeling of the night was festive and relaxed.
We stopped at a pasta shop for brownies and sweets. The water
front, that had only a few people during the heat of the day,
was now filled with couples pushing strollers, older folk sitting
together, talking and watching others go by, and children enjoying
playground equipment. Two young girls laughingly attempted to
belly dance while their parents visited. The first stars were
beginning to appear as we climbed the steep road to the hotel. |
We
have many kilometers to go before we sleep in Canakkale on the
Dardanells this evening so we get an early start, boarding the
bus at 7:30. We pass Ephesus on the highway to the north, admiring
once again the stadium and the main street visible from the
north. On through Izmir, the former Smyrna, according to legend
founded by an Amazon queen who moved here from Ephesus, and
the home to the blind poet Homer and the historian Heroditus.
Izmir at 2.5 million is now Turkey’s third largest city
and is largely an industrial city. It takes about one hour to
drive through.
We head for Pergamon. Lyzimakos, a general of Alexander the
Great, established this city with its Acropolis at the very
top of a mountain. A narrow one-lane road winds its way to the
top. Pergamon and the Acropolis are beautiful even on a windswept
day. The sun is intense but the wind keeps us cool. It’s
Mary and my 37th anniversary, but nevertheless somehow the group
and I manage to lose Mary. I hustle back along the acropolis
and find Mary engaged in intense conversation with a person
from another tour group, under the shade of a large tree. She
was unconcerned and fully expected us to pick her up on the
way back. We have lunch in the lower city of Pergamon and then
proceed to the Asklepieion of Pergamon which was one of three
major health centers of the GrecoRoman empire (along with Epidauros,
and Kos). We thread through the access road along the military
sector, receiving a warning from Iris not to take any pictures
of the military compound or training field. The Asklepieion
is impressive. Asklepios, the God of Health was recognized with
a temple built in the 4th century BC. This is quite an impressive
place. The physicians clearly recognized the important relationship
between the mind and the body. A theater for patients to perform
plays that would help keep their mind off their physical problems,
running water to provide a soothing background sound, and a
health center with voice channels for the “gods”
to reassure patients that they were being cured!
We hit the road again headed for Cannakale but first make a
stop at an olive oil factory. This region is recognized for
the very best olive oil in Turkey and the Mediterranian. Olive
trees everywhere the eye can see! We pass through Edrimet, the
birthplace of the father of Gov. Dukakis. The Greek Dukakis
family had to move from here in the eairly 1900’s as part
of the “exchange” that moved tens of thousands of
Turks from Greece and Greeks from Turkey. We made a quick stop
at the beach at Altinoluk at the request of Barb who wanted
to dip her toes into the waters of the Aegean. It is a gorgeous
beach with crystal clear water and smooth pebbles of marble.
Almost everyone was seduced into picking up a few of the beautiful,
multicolored marble pebbles to take home.
We passed Assos, home of Aristotle, teacher of Alexander the
Great and sped on to Troy to try to reach there before the gate
closed.
We arrived a minute or two before six p.m. and had an informative
guided tour by Iris through this most impressive city of nine
lives. We could see remains of the first Troy, established about
3000 BCE, and followed the various walls and structures built
by the Hittites, Greeks, Romans, and many others. We had to
imagine what Troy was like when the water lapped at the walls
of the city, since the Dardanells is now about 4 km away due
to silting of the river delta. We followed the story of the
Trojans and the siege of Troy, some climbed the wooden replica
of the famous horse.
Finally, on to Canakkale and the Anzac Hotel, checking in at
about 8 p.m.. We enjoyed a group dinner that lasted until 10:30.
Dinner included a tasty pastry at the end that was brought by
Iris in honor of the 37th wedding anniversary of Al and Mary. |
What
we are learning today as we make our way across this land, waddling
our way toward home…
• Travel with friends. As a group you can handle anything.
Carla came prepared with duct tape that we borrowed in Guzelyurt
for sealing a bottle of water from the well at St. Gregory’s
church. Bill wanted to take it home to put a few drops in baptismal
waters to connect us with Christians in other times and places.
He didn’t want anyone to accidentally take a drink however.
Today Carla rolled out the tape again so I could repair my sunglasses
that had popped apart. I think the heat at Pergamum finished
them off and at the summit some force of the Gods threw Barbara
to the ground and whipped my sunglasses off my face. Perhaps
that is why there were little papers with prayer requests wrapped
around branches of the small tree at the edge of the cliff.
It was a fabulous view. The tape lasted a couple hours and then
Priscilla gave me an extra pair of hers…much better.
• Time is relative.
We had a 7:30 departure time so we could catch the 8:00 ferry
across the Dardanelles. At least some of us did. Bill was left
on the 4th floor (and we didn’t start counting until the
3rd level) with all our suitcases, waiting for the less than
speedy elevator to return for him. Meanwhile all the other luggage
and people were loaded on the bus, and since it was a one lane
road, Mesut needed to move toward the roundabout and get into
the ferry line. So they drove off with Iris and me in pursuit,
pulling suitcases, a bell boy pressed into carrying our other
bag, Bill walking empty handed because Iris thinks he has lost
weight and she doesn’t want him to start another nose
bleed. I concur. We entered the roundabout pulling our luggage,
blending with trucks, buses, and cars since there are no sidewalks,
and we caught the bus as it stopped to enter the line for the
ferry. We missed the 8:00 ferry by this time, but what an adventure.
Thanks to everyone for waiting for us. Masut’s wife Hulya
joined him last night and we will drop her off at their home
near Gallipoli. Mesut’s name means “happy”
and Hulya means “dream wish.”
• I couldn’t bear the thought of loosing one of
my children.
We visited the site where New Zealand and Australian troops
came ashore at Anzac Cove in 1915 and met their death. Over
200 were buried there facing a large engraved stone cross. Three
stones off to the side honored the nonchristians. At the entrance
was carved this message.
“Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their
lives…You are now lying in the soil of a friendly country,
therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the
Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side,
here in this country of ours… You, the mothers, who sent
their sons from far away countries, wipe away your tears. Your
sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After having
lost their lives on this land they have become our sons as well.
Mustafa Kemal Ataturk, 1934”
The top of the hill above us is called the Hill of Blood. Between
the graves grow roses and other flowers. Some families have
had an additional inscription engraved. Iris says that the museum
exhibits are to help people understand how terrible war is.
As I look up at the hill, I remember cross country meets on
rainy days, the struggle to get up a hill after one race had
gone before. I think how awful it must have been to step over
the bodies of friends, slipping on the blood-slicked mud to
a certain death ahead. My heart aches for them and for mothers,
wives, and children so far away.
• This is actually an ice cream tour of Turkey.
At one of our relief stops, we toured a small zoo behind the
gas station. It was (surprisingly) free and contained an interesting
collection of animals: iguana, ostrich, angora hares, camels,
pelicans, swan, fox, squirrels, monkeys… On the way to
the bus I convinced Barbara that she could not leave Turkey
without trying a Magnum Bar. So as not to eat alone, she bought
one for me and offered a bite to Marge and Nancy, who thought
they were heading to the bus, but instead joined Ann at the
ice cream freezer. We must drive Mesut crazy bringing all this
ice cream onto his bus. He takes so much pride in keeping it
clean.
• This is a land of incredible variety and beauty.
We stopped for lunch in Tekirdag where we started with a delicious
warm appetizer of eggplant, zucchini, tomato, and mild peppers.
As we gazed out the bus windows, the rolling farm fields could
be anywhere. We saw a patchwork of golden wheat, brilliant yellow
sunflowers, green corn, small gardens, olive groves, orchards,
but no houses. People do not live near their land here, but
gather in villages. Much of the day we have driven along the
seaside: The Dardanelles, The Sea of Marmara, and our hotel
in Istanbul overlooks The Bosphorus. We have returned to the
place from which we set off, some of us with the same room,
none of us with the same amount of luggage. On the way here
we stopped at the Spice Market to feast our eyes on the herbs
and spices hanging over our heads to dry, and gathered in baskets
and bins all around us. We tasted and purchased Turkish Delight,
nuts, and spices to take home, along with a few other odds and
ends. On the way to the hotel, Mesut drove us past the Hippodrome
and Iris explained the significance of what we saw. Dinner tonight
will be in a fourth to fifth century cistern near the Hagia
Sophia. As we walked there down a quiet stone street, we were
treated to a great variety of 7-foot tall hydrangeas in every
imaginable shade of blue, lavender, and pink. We could peer
down into the cistern restaurant from small windows at the street
level. The cistern was immense, with two to three foot thick
walls. The interior was lit primarily by candles in large candelabra
strategically place around us. A fan blew tissue paper in the
fireplace to simulate a fire, but without the heat. A pianist
played a variety of songs behind us. The first course was a
seafood crepe bathed in a light white sauce and drizzled with
cocktail sauce. We had a choice then of lamb, grilled chicken,
or chicken curry. The sides were the usual rice and french fries,
hot and delicious. The vegetables were tender crisp and lightly
seasoned. For dessert we were given a choice of ice cream with
or without rice pudding. The ice cream was delicious. The chocolate
version was not overly sweet, and was creamy and intensely chocolate.
The rice pudding had a delicate but intense vanilla taste. Oddly
enough this restaurant did not have Turkish coffee, although
the guys at our table were all able to start out with the traditional
Turkish Raki. We gave Iris some tokens of our homeland and our
thanks for a splendid trip. Consensus at our table was that
another trip to anywhere with this same group would be worth
taking. |
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