| Day
1 - Dana - We
began our tour at 4 pm. on the terrace of the hotel. As we
introduced ourselves, we mentioned where we live, what we
do and why we decided to come. We discovered that a few of
our members have been teachers – they can raise their voices
and give “the look”. We come from all across the US; some
traveled pre-tour, and some are traveling more post-tour.
Tan gave a good intro to Istanbul, Turkey and Islam. As the
muezzins chanted, Tan explained their words and their meaning.
They are saying that God is the one God and there is no higher.
All believers are called to prayer. I volunteered to be Journal
master, which means that I get to hand over the journal each
day to a lucky recipient. I also volunteered to take it at
the end of the tour to type up and put together. We also chose
buddies so we could do a buddy check before we head out anywhere.
Fifteen minutes later, we congregated in the lobby of the
hotel to walk to the Blue Mosque. In the courtyard next to
the unused fountain, Tan continued his explanation of Islam.
Some things of note are the washing before prayer so that
the person is clean before God, the five times a day prayers
that can be done in the mosque or somewhere else, and the
Friday noon service, which is the one to be done at the mosque
with the congregation.
The
architecture of the mosque is beautiful. We went inside, doffing
shoes. The inside is incredibly impressive. Stained glass
windows, domes, chandeliers, tiles – all elaborate and imposing,
yet there is a calm air and it is inviting for prayer. The
Namaz is a ritual involving prayer, the Koran and prostration
before God. Some things of note inside the mosque are the
Sultan’s Cage where he would pray apart from the crowds, and
the Mimber, a staircase at the front. The Imam only goes halfway
up the Mimber to preach, because Mohammad takes the higher
position. We went to a lovely restaurant for our first Turkish
meal. We started with the famous Mezes – appetizers. They
were all delicious! Salad, kabobs and rice pudding completed
the meal. We all drank a toast to Joyce S’s birthday – Sherafe!
All in all, a promising first day. Good company, knowledgeable
and friendly guide and a beautiful city and country. I’m looking
forward to the rest of it!
Day
2 - Diana - We gathered in the hotel lobby and walked
up the street, past the ever-hopeful carpet merchants and
beyond the Blue Mosque (officially, the Sultanahmet Mosque)
into the ancient Roman Hippodrome. This remained an open space
throughout the Byzantine and Ottoman Empires, for 1,700 years
in all. The Hippodrome contained three towers in a line at
the south end of the ancient horseracing oval. The first was
a spectacular Egyptian granite obelisk with carved hieroglyphics
from the time of Tutrouse III (?). It rested on a newer but
more worn marble base dedicated to Emperor Theodosius and
depicting the seated emperor with his standing family and
retainers. It showed him presenting the crown of laurel leaves
to a winning racer and receiving tribute from some Persian
dignitaries. Next we threaded our way through lines of parked
tour buses and entered the Ibrahim Pasha Palace on the western
edge of the Hippodrome. This is now the Museum of Turkish
and Islamic Arts. This beautiful home is protected from the
street by high walls. Inside is a lovely garden with roses
and oleander. Tan took us through the Ethnographic section
and explained the origins and ethnic mixture that makes the
modern Turk. We then saw black tent homes made of woven
goat hair. People who live in these are not truly nomads.
The next display was a typical village home. Somewhat like
Japanese traditional homes, there were low pieces of furniture.
Bedding was stored in built-in cupboards in the wall. We then
passed progressively more opulent and “Western European” looking
rooms where the women wore silk dressed typical of the mid-nineteenth
century in Europe and North America. Then Tan led us across
the courtyard to the museum proper. He reminded us to notice
the room arrangement in the living quarters of a grand vizier
of the sultan. The rooms were small. Each contained a fireplace
but had no window piercing the outside walls. The artifacts
were well displayed and were organized chronologically for
the most part. Carved animal reliefs in stone, beautiful metalwork,
precious carpets from the Seljuk period and dazzlingly beautiful
calligraphy with much gold leaf fascinated me. Dana especially
liked the intricate inlay of mother-of-pearl in beautiful
wooden objects, such as Koran holders and reading stands.
The last large room with its enormous red carpets hanging
on the wall and the many objects, including fascinating miniatures,
was absolutely beautiful. We gathered under a portico overlooking
the courtyard and sipped tea, coffee or water while we shared
our impressions and enthusiasms with one another. Tan and
Mary then gathered us together and we walked a short distance
to the underground cistern. We descended marble stairs into
a strange world of columns and watery reflections punctuated
by isolated pieces of art or screened animation that seemed
to be about the female body. There was a bit of a feeling
that we had found the river Styx in the underworld.
The
cistern was part of the Byzantine water supply that brought
water from springs by gravity through aqueducts and stored
in these huge cisterns or reservoirs. These in turn fed many
running fountains where people could collect their water.
After lunch we walked to the Hagia Sophia, or Santa Sophia
or Aya Sofia. This is the enormous church Justinian commissioned
in 537 AD. I saw slides of this church-mosque-museum in 1968
and fell in love with it. It was a special pleasure to be
able to see it. It helped that we were experiencing another
bright autumn day in Istanbul, because the church carries
more weight in its walls and has fewer windows and, consequently,
less light than the Blue Mosque we saw yesterday. The bus
took us west to St. Savior in Chora. This formerly Greek church,
turned mosque and then museum, like St. Sophia, was built
on the outskirts of the city, near Justinian’s city walls
that marked Istanbul’s western boundary. Now it is in the
middle of this enormous city. On the bus ride home, we saw
the old city walls and then drove along the Golden Horn and
the Bosphorus. We had a welcome two hours to rest before meeting
for dinner. Dinner tonight was special. Perhaps it was the
red wine several of us chose, but we ended up telling life
stories. Adopted kids, a daughter born in Brussels, a sister
who loves Vietnam, and lots of good travel tales were shared.
Eating in the cool evening air in the garden of the Green
Hotel with competing calls to worship and a nearly full moon
- did Rick arrange all this us? We agreed we had made the
right decision to come.
day
3 - Joyce N. - Many of us sighed as we left the roof top
restaurant overlooking the beautiful Bosphorus Sea today,
our last day in Istanbul. Our sighs were soon replaced by
huffing and puffing as Mary led us up the hill to a toe tapping
morning at Topkapi Palace. The
weather is really glorious and Tan gave us an overview of
the palace by a large-scale model of the same. The first courtyard
(a large park) was for everyone to visit and enjoy. Within
the walls were the second and third courtyards and accompanying
buildings. The third courtyard was secure from visitors to
the Sultan and his Harem. Harem meaning "family."
Various sultans added buildings over about 400 years and since
the palace was redecorated in an eclectic Western style that
is what you get: Eclectic! The
kitchens (where, at one time, hundreds of people worked to
feed the family, staff, visitors and sometimes the public)
were vast. They are in the second courtyard and now hold porcelain
and glass. The Chinese Celadon and blue and white china from
the Ming Dynasty were brought by land and sea over the Silk
Route, as was the Japanese Imari. Luckily, Tan was allowed
to lead our group on a tour of the harem, where the Valide
Sultan (mother of the Sultan) was boss. The Sultan was allowed
four wives and did not deign to dally with the concubines,
as they were actually attractive, compliant recruitees to
be ladies-in-waiting and companions to the wives and family.
The rooms were large and lavish with tile and gold gilding.
Beautiful Turkish baths. It was a treat to have Tan's enthusiastic
and comprehensive guiding in the Harem.Left on our own, many
of us visited the "Relics," the "Treasury"
and the "Costumes" buildings before heading back
to the hotel for our bus pick up. Mary gave us our stamps
and we boarded the bus for the Pera district where restaurants
("there's an old Turkish saying - you can't get bad food
in the business district!"), ATMs and shops abound. FYI
- at the end of the alley by the post office there is a fantastic
Italian restaurant. Karl and Joyce, instead, made a run for
the Galata Tower and its 360-degree views. Adnan, our bus
driver, took us to the Grand Bazaar. We entered through the
Nuruosmani Kapisi (gate) and Tan oriented us on Kalpakcilar
Street. Some of us raced and some mosied through the market
looking at gold, silver, leather, fabric, costumes, t-shirts
and the Old Book Bazaar. Then came the Spice Bazaar where
we made a small dent in their Turkish coffee, saffron
and honey, but not pets, supply. On to the Bosphorus Sea and
a private charter for a sunset ride down the European Coast
and up the Asian side. Adnan took us to our train, the Ankara
Express night train. We boarded at 10pm. The compartments
were compact, comfortable and tidy. Mary and Nuri served us
all raki - it just hit the spot. We chuckled and visited till
the porter put us to bed. What a day! Tomorrow, Ankara.
Day
4 - Reg - It was up early to see the sun rise on the train
while having breakfast.The landscape was reminiscent of Eastern
Washington, dry and treeless where not irrigated, and with
high bluffs and rolling hills. Alongside the tracks on the
power pylons, storks had built nests on the top around the
power cables. These nests are huge structures and completely
engulf the tops of the pylons. We
were off to see the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. On
the way, there was a traffic signal, which gave a countdown
in seconds to when it would turn green. No getting upset here
about when a signal would change - the exact time to wait
was obvious! Finally
the museum high up the hill, just outside the original walled
city, called the citadel. Ankara is a mosaic of old and new
with development going on apace. Since it was chosen as the
capital a little over 80 years ago, it has increased in size
maybe tenfold. The
museum itself was a wonder. It described the very beginnings
of known human civilizations. It had original Stone, Bronze
and Iron Age artifacts found in the surrounding Turkey.The
earliest of these being cave paintings, stone implements and
fertility goddesses dating back to the 8th millenium
before Christ, at least ten thousand years old.The workmanship
is remarkable. The Bronze Age items were incredibly well made
considering these were all hand fabricated - no industrialization
to help here. It
was hard to break away from this fascinating place, probably
the best of its kind in the world. But leave we did to go
to the Mausoleum and Museum of Ataturk, the founder of modern
Turkey, in 1923. And what an architecturally impressive place
this is - built on a grand scale with huge plazas, tall buildings
and immense squares. This place was as grand as the old medieval
palaces. It had pictures and memorabilia of Ataturk in the
museum. We had the experience of seeing a changing of the
guard while we were there.A very imposing and maybe intimidating
place.Off to the Cappadocia region.Cappadocia is not a place,
as we found out, but an area. We start off in the arid country
and the nearer to Urgup we got, the more green rolling hills
and trees we saw, together with farming, animal husbandry
(sheep, goats, donkeys and cattle). In fact we saw flocks
of sheep on many hundreds being herded on the shoulder of
the highway. Some of us noted the red tinges on the hills
and speculated that this might be iron ore. Once again, a
land of contrasts. New houses next to derelicts. Sprawling
villages each with its own mosque, minarets dotting the countryside
like lances pointing up to the heavens. A landscape that not
many of us had seen before. And the weather, clean and warm.
We got to our hotel, the Greek House, and were welcomed by
the proprietor and his family. A solidly constructed place
that has unique rooms although well appointed. There will
not be further description so not to spoil the excitement
and joy of future tour members. Dinner was great, a tasty
turvee and rice, washed down with a local wine. And, of course,
platters of fresh bread and the ever present spring water.
Dessert was a delicious fresh baked baclavar made by the proprietor's
wife. Dana completed a long eventful day by singing a song
for us, after dinner, called "Ring Them Bells."(available
on the recording “Liza with a Z” by Liza Minnelli – D). This
was a great bit and was a fitting end to the day. We all climbed
into bed to contemplate the next day. PS - Woke up the next
morning with the house cat sleeping on my feet.
Day
5 - Jan - Urgup under clear blue skies and bright
sunshine. Almost immediately we encountered tufa formations
resulting from volcanic eruptions occurred several thousand
years ago. The volcanic ash, tufa, splayed the valleys, followed
by molten lava. The eruptions formed many layers. Rain and
snow and ice cut into the fine soft rock, forming undulating
shapes. The dome-like shapes are the "Fairy Chimneys."
We
first viewed the Red Rock area comprised of sulfur, iron and
copper, and had our first chance to walk around these formations.
Our next stop was at Uchisar, which comprises an old town
and a new town. The town overlooks the Valley of Pigeons.
Here, many of us climbed down into and through the various
cave-like areas noticing how cool they were during the warm
midday sun. Throughout our drive we encountered breathtaking
views of large expanses of these cave-like dwellings.
Next
we drove through Urgup and stopped to watch stone masons shaving
the stone for building homes. The stone homes are owned by
the wealthier people and cost $5 a stone for carving. We also
noted 2 women, one harvesting beans and another cutting wood.
By
the way, the stones last a half-century, but must be maintained
every 2-3 years as they are subject to cracking due to the
weather. At
12:00 we stopped at the Goreme Museum to view wall drawings
and frescoes on the walls of monasteries and churches, many
of which were located in Goreme. Prior to housing the monasteries,
many of the structures were utilized for various activities
including burial of the dead, wine making, etc. The colors
used in the frescoes were primarily reds and blacks dating
back to the 11th Century AD. This group ushered in the Iconoclast
Era or the Banishment of Icons - no human figures. Designs
were employed for religious symbols instead. We
stopped to view St. Basil, St. Barbara and the Buckle Church.
The caves (churches) were comprised of four columns and a
dome-like ceiling to represent freestanding churches. We noted
various depictions of Jesus the Pantocrator. These churches
were built by donations from the people. At 1:45, feeling
quite hungry, we had the opportunity to eat lunch with a family
in Uchisar. The hostess, Sevim, her spouse, Ismail, daughter
in law, daughter and son were present. After a hearty meal
of salad, beans & bulgar wheat, we sat around "conversing"
with them, discussing topics including schools, our political
situation, their work and Sevim's attempt to be mayor of the
city. Many of us left exhausted, returning to our lodging,
The Greek House, where dinner awaited us. The evening culminated
in three musicians who provided music and dance entertainment
for us. This was a very full day indeed. I am struck by the
contrast of the very ancient and the very new reflected in
the landscapes with electric wires in the foreground and the
tufa dwellings in the background; the difference in dress
of the younger women and the older women; the modern day cars
and the horse-drawn wagons - sharp contrasts difficult sometimes
to comprehend.
Day
6 - Karl - A few souls hit the streets early to observe
the daily trek of the goat/sheep herd up to pasture.
At
8:00am we gathered in the hall of the hotel for breakfast.
Dana was saying goodbye to the kittens. At
9:00 we departed for Red Rock and en route we dropped off
Mary's husband for a final visit to his village and family.
Upon arrival, we are turned loose to play "find your
way down the hill and through the Valley of the Imaginations."
Mary frets about poor Bob who has trapped himself, but eventually
escapes. Howard and Jan, our professional climbers, are observed
peering from the highest caves. After
this adventure and a short "camera" stop to climb
the hill and observe the Valley, we continued on to Avanos
and the Red River. A stop at the Kaya pottery factory gave
everyone a new appreciation of the skills of the artisans
as well as much knowledge about quality pottery. Dana was
quick to claim 1st prize (a teapot) and Joyce S. tested the
"you break it, you buy it" policy. The next stop
found us at the underground city of Kaymakli, where Christians
sought refuge from their enemies. As many as 8,000 people
sometimes occupied the 8 levels of the maze of tunnels. This
proved to be a severe test for Reggie and Karl, who have more
height and less cranial protection. However, all emerged safely.
Our next bus jaunt took us past numerous potato fields and
terminated at our monastery hotel, where the attractions included
a pool and bovine lawn service. The cafeteria dinner was preceded
by happy hour and deep discussion on our impressions of Turkey
and other topics. Dinner
concluded another enlightening day in our Turkey adventure.
Day
7 - Mary B. - Our wake-up call this morning was given
by a very handsome black rooster crowing on the terrace outside
our window. Another beautiful day in Turkey - bright blue
sky and less cool than yesterday. A breakfast buffet awaited
us with the usual assortment of cheeses, olives, tomatoes,
breads and jellies - also hard-boiled eggs and little muffins.
Several of us enjoyed hot milk in our coffee today and an
unusual condiment - rose jelly. At 9:00am, we took off on
a ten-minute walk (downhill) to the mosque - formerly the
Greek Orthodox church of St. Gregory. The Imam, Halil, greeted
us in his garden, and we entered the mosque (sans shoes) and
seated ourselves on the floor in a circle. Halil, using Tan
as interpreter, gave a history of the church. Frescoes have
all been covered with whitewash. In the coming years, the
whitewash will be removed from the frescoes and the mosque
will become a museum. The present congregation is very small
in the summer, but averages 50-100 in the winter. Many questions
were asked - from children's religious training to prayer
beads, to the recent terrorist attack in the US. The Imam
was very emphatic in his condemnation of the act of terrorism
- stating that neither killing nor suicide could be accepted
or tolerated by Islam. We were impressed by his frankness,
his knowledge, and his sense of humor (which showed his wonderful
smile).After a 1 1/2 hour session, we made our way (uphill)
to the monastery, loaded our bags on the bus and had lunch.
As at last night's dinner, we could choose from an array of
many different salads plus several hot dishes and fruits.
As we left the little village, the children waved… and we
waved back. Tan gave us another brief Turkish lesson and spoke
of the education system in his country. Our bus sped on toward
Konya and the terrain changed from the lava-strewn hills to
a flatter countryside. Tan now talked about the caravanserais
- important stops on the Silk Road at the peak in the 11-14th
centuries. These were huge facilities - 8 hours of camel walk
apart - which sheltered merchants, their families, servants,
armed troops and camels - on the journeys that brought spices,
tiles, pottery, gunpowder and especially silk from Beijing
to Asia Minor. These were major institutes to promote trade.
They charged no fee but took a percentage of the sales of
goods. Trips took 8-9 months and were interrupted only by
the Crusades and Mongolian raids. We stopped to visit Sultanhani,
one of the largest of the caravanserais. Built in 1229, it
remains a real monument to commerce. Dark clouds have appeared
and a light rain - the first of our trip - fell as we headed
on past dusty fields, which gradually disappeared under extensive
new industrial parks, grain elevators, and many commercial
buildings on both sides of the highway. Lots of construction
going on here - "rainbow rows" of multi-storied
apartment houses in vivid shades of green, rose, bright blue
and yellow. Konya is a very modern city with a mosque on almost
every block. Our hotel, the Seljuk, was just off the main
street of the city. Birdsong and parrot "talk" greeted
us as we entered the lobby. (Dana immediately went to investigate).
Wonder of wonders - tonight we are indulged with elevators,
AC, English TV and bathtubs! Free time after checking in gave
the group time to check out the internet cafes, the post office
and some of the shops on the main drag. Dinner tonight in
the well-appointed dining room of the hotel was very good
- beginning with a delicious chicken soup and ending with
the ever-present rice pudding… We've really shifted gears
from the small villages of the last two stops on this ever-amazing
tour.
Day
8 - Bob - Up in the morning - put on your money belt -
tour like the devil all day. Breakfast at 7:30 consisted
of the usual cheese, olives, tomatoes plus scrambled eggs
and omelets - all served buffet style. Loaded
baggage at 9:15 and off to Mevlana Museum. On the way, we
passed through the center of Konya and saw the 13th Century
summer palace. The surrounding grounds are now a public park
with military clubs in the center. The Mevlana Museum contains
the tomb of Mevlana Rumi - the spiritual leader of the Whirling
Dervishes. Mevlana was following his own path but many of
his followers began to establish strict rules for the sect.
The dervishes go into a trance when they whirl. The hand and
arm positions signify heaven and earth. Music is provided
by string instruments, flutes and kudum. The museum was very
impressive with lots of color and beautiful exhibits.
On
leaving Konya, we noticed many new apartment buildings - most
with solar water heaters. Stopped for lunch at Tinaz Tepe
restaurant and had a choice of fish (trout) or kebabs. The
bread (lavas) was especially good. On
the drive to Antalya, we passed through the Taurus Mountains
(peak 12,000 feet). As we drove, Tan talked about immigration
within Turkey (human tidal wave). Most villages people have
access to many TV stations. Seeing what outside life was like
led many people to move to the cities. However, lack of jobs
and the end of terrorism has made many move back to their
villages.On arrival at our pensions in Antalya (part of the
group at Villa Perla and part at Ninova Pension) and after
a brief "free time" we walked to the Turkish Bath.
The bath was quite an experience. The men first lay on a hot!!
marble slab to bake and were then scrubbed with a glove called
bent, pounded and dried. This could be used for Marine boot
camp. The ladies didn't have the hot slab, but the rest was
the same except their attendants sang while they worked. Tea
was served at the end. Back
to the hotel and everyone in a different direction for dinner.
Mary
and I went with Wendy and Reg to find the Kral Sofrasi Restaurant.
Wendy led the way and we tramped through most of the city
until a kind soul (a boat owner) led us through alleys and
dark streets to the restaurant. The special dessert was as
good as Tan said it would be. Our kind waiter led us back
to our pension where "housemother" Mary was waiting
up for us. The
lucky old sun had set long ago!
Day
9 - Leonard - This is our day to cruise the Mediterranean
Sea. We followed Tan down to the docks and boarded the TCQ
Harami. We later learned that Harami means burglar or thief
(it may be just as well that we didn't know beforehand!).
Wouldn’t you know that we left our camera on the bus last
night so we can't spice up this narrative with photos. However,
having a photographic mind, I knew I could recreate our greatest
moments. The bay at Antalya is like a giant crescent. As we
sailed (actually motored) out of the harbor we got a great
view of a very impressive skyline with hundreds and hundreds
of high rise hotels and apartment buildings. One of the most
interesting sights in Turkey to me is the high rise "skeleton"
- the unfinished building. There were only a few of them in
the crescent. I stopped writing to have a glass of wine at
the pension bar. Now that I have started again, I realize
my writing is worse, but I care less. Back to the cruise.
We dropped anchor at Rat Island to go for a swim. Great photo
op! Water was warm and very salty. After getting all on board,
we continued to Kemer, where we anchored for lunch. Lunch
was salad, pasta and a fish called Kolyos. Everyone agreed
that the lunch was delicious (this may have been because no
one wanted to be keel-hauled by the captain). The fish were
little guys cooked in their own oil. We watched some water
skiers and para-sailors and generally loafed about. We were
given the option of returning to dock on the boat or riding
the bus back. The captain belayed that option because the
wind started kicking up and he thought it might be too dangerous.
Actually, I think he didn't want to take a chance on us throwing
up all over his boat. All in all it was an enjoyable day away
from the bus.
Day
10 - Joyce S. - We boarded our bus in Antalya. Headed
north through the Taurus range. Stopped for lunch at scenic
Lake Salda, it was a treat that our guides did arrange. The
landscape was a mosaic of Turkey with goat herds, nomads and
carts, cotton fields, horse farms and donkeys. Blend with
mountain peaks, blue skies - nature's art. Pamukkale was our
final destination which lay past ruins of ancient times, the
cotton castle defies imagination. Another day spent in Turkey
- oh so fine.
News
of the US strike on Afghanistan lent a somber note to our
group and Tan's Turkish newspapers did little to enlighten
us about transpiring events. Mid-morning found us sipping
herbal tea in Fatma's nomad tent of goat hair and marveling
at the contrasting lifestyles in Turkey. Lake
Salda beckoned and a few hearty tour members answered the
call to test the clear, blue water. The hum of the bus motor
was our signal to leave tranquility behind and continue on
to Heirapolis. Bus
discussions centered around terrorism and the current crisis.
Concerns about Turkish reactions to the US action in Afghanistan
as well as Turkey's position among its neighbors were expressed.
Tan also educated us about the background of the current precarious
state of Turkey's economy. By
the time we stopped for a photo op of the calcium cliffs,
we were all familiar with Tan's favorite expressions:
-
Come on
- Estimated Turkish time
- That's another story
And the fact we all could have been content not knowing -
"sarcophagus" means flesh eater. Pamukkale/Hierapolis,
a sacred city of the Romans, proved to be a vast area of ruins
of a city and surrounding area first constructed by the Greeks
in the 4th Century BC and later occupied by the Romans. Calcium
pools and white deposits border a sprawling Roman cemetery
and avenues lined with columns, arches and fallen stones with
intricate carving. The theater left many in awe and was where
we saw one of the few fences in Turkey - one that foiled Dana's
plan to supply the head for the goddess statues and create
a photo for posterity. A swim in the thermal calcium pool
has surely rejuvenated us for the remainder of our tour, or
increased our toe bruises and bacteria levels. A large buffet
on the terrace of our hotel concluded a most diverse day.
Day
11 - Howard - This morning we left Pamukkale, passing
again the "Cotton Castle" on our way to Kusadasi
on the Agean Coast and our last Turkish city on our tour.
We
drove a couple of hours through dry, dusty farming valleys,
bathed in yet another beautiful day of sunshine and warm temperatures.
Tan wouldn't "make any promises," but he did deliver
great weather the entire two weeks. Our
talk on the bus today was about women in Turkey. Today there
is a large difference between rural regions and the cities.
Traditions
in the eastern part of Turkey particularly hold sway in family
life for women. Their roles are wife, mother and housekeeper
- yet this gives them the central head role of the family.
Divorce, working outside the home in the western sense, and
birth control are not much allowed. This lifestyle is heavily
tradition bound and doesn't easily change. By
contrast, western and southern cities provide women much more
opportunities. Work outside the traditional home yields good
pay and increasing opportunities in teaching, medicine, military,
police and civil service. Also higher divorce rate, though
much smaller than in the US. Over
the past 20 years, both men and women have moved to the city
from rural areas, selling off their possessions, only to find
city life no better. With intense competition and few skills,
they don't really succeed until 2nd/3rd generation - a very
similar experience to immigrants to the US from abroad.
For
lunch, we stopped at a very nice roadside restaurant - outdoor
dining under grape trellises and hanging melons. We had pieda
- a kind of simple pizza with meat or cheese, and mushrooms
baked with sheep cheese - oh my - such good mushrooms! I could
have easily climbed into one of the hammocks hanging about
and slept away the afternoon. But alas, we had to move on.
About
an hour later we arrived at Ephesus and drove up into the
mountains above the ancient Roman/Hellenistic city - a preview
of tomorrow's exploration spread out before us. On
the way back down the mountain we could see the valley below
- now all filled in with silt - that was a harbor in Roman
times. After
checking into our hotel we had dinner in the hotel. Most of
us walked down toward town after dinner but I had to come
back early to do my duty with this journal. But it is so pleasant
sitting on our hotel balcony looking out over the harbor town
of Kusadasi, listening to the crickets sing that I can't complain
at all. Tonight is warm and relaxing - it will be hard to
leave this area of Turkey day after tomorrow. Our other big
adventure for today was the Roman town of Aphrodisias, dedicated
to Aphrodite, Goddess of fertility, fun and fornication. This
ancient city had its origins over 5,500 years ago in the Bronze
Age and peaked during the Hellenistic era. The ruins are vast
and only a small part has been unearthed - a long term project
led by NYU in the US. I could go on and on about the details
of the stadium, amphitheater and agora (central market), but
I'm quite sure I'd bollox the many details from the barely
readable notes I scribbled along the way. See the pictures!
What I take away from the sites is the grand scale and marvelous
engineering and beauty that must have existed when these structures
were intact. The cost in human lives and labor must have been
immense. It is such a shame that these cities could not have
survived intact the ravages of time.
Day
12 - Wendy - Down to breakfast at 7:30am. Eggs are "just
right" today for Mary L! Keith is under the weather today.
We are surprised to see four large cruise ships maneuvering
in the bay. This does not bode well for our tour of the ancient
city of Ephesus. It will be crowded! On
the bus at 8:30am. All on time as usual - we're a punctual
group. Tan gave us the run down of the day's busy itinerary;
"w.c." information was high on the list and is gratefully
received as usual. As
we rode along the highway we could see peach and orange trees
for the first time, lining our route. Blue skies, green hills
and sunshine gave the promise of a lovely day. I
will not detail the history of Ephesus, except to say that
this impressive site rests now at the 3rd and final location.
Excavation has determined that Ephesus was originally on the
water but gradual silt build-up has caused it to be now approximately
4 miles inland so had lost its usefulness as a port city.
As
we stood in the front agora, or open space, Tan detailed the
layout of the city and points of interest we would cover.
(Agoraphobia - the fear of open spaces, comes from the word
"agora"). As he spoke, a convoy of buses arrived,
disgorging a multitude of tourists that we guessed were from
those boats in the bay! Many nationalities were represented
and we caught British, Italian, German and French accents.
As the open space became noisier and more crowded it was easy
to imagine that this was just as it was when Ephesus was part
of the Roman Empire, with the residents and visitors exchanging
information as they gathered in the same location.
Tan
really needs a "brolly" (umbrella) today, or whatever,
as he is hard to follow in his grey shirt among the crowds.
I decided to keep a lookout for Dana or Jan, as they have
bright tops on. ETBD guides like to keep a low profile so
they don't subscribe to carrying flags, signs, etc. We just
have to keep alert and close! The
hordes keep arriving but everyone is interested in learning
about the site and we move fairly evenly through the areas.
Tan talks of the water supply, vital, of course, which was
obtained from the rivers and carried to the city by aqueducts.
We see the red clay pipes underfoot that run throughout the
living and bath areas. No bottled water for the Ephesians!
Cats
are present in large number here. Dana and Mary L. are happy
to see these furry friends. I think Diana's a fan of felines
also. We see one man taking great pains to get a photo of
a little cat. He must have been a cat lover too, I'm sure!
How many cats are there in Turkey, anyway?! We walk the marble
road, which runs the length of the site noting the grooves
in the ancient stones. These were to aid wheel traction. Chariots
were driven along here until the road was finally blocked
off. Ancient drag racing? We wonder if so. The teeming crowds
move past our little group as Tan teaches - the tramps of
many feet pass by on the road, echoing the sounds of the past.
Tan arranges for us to visit the Terraced Houses, which are
being excavated and restored. These were built 3-4 Century
AD and occupied by the Roman upper class, terraced above the
marble road with stores on the ground floor to the front.
These homes were huge with as many as 5 bedrooms. Elaborately
marbled floors, frescoed walls, large clay pots, marble fountains,
tables, etc. The homes included an inner atrium for light.
Slave accommodations, kitchens, baths, theaters. Mosaics were
set at an angle on the floors to reflect light. Much use of
water also made inner rooms light and pleasant. One
item of unique interest was a painted wall where perhaps children
had drawn animals and soldiers (low down on the wall). Also
a theater where wall frescoes depicted female masks. Tan suggested
that these families were entertained by strolling players
in their homes, for their guests to enjoy. The terrace homes
were followed by the crème de la crème of the site - the impressive
façade of the Library. Flanked by the South Gate and another
agora in front. We also visited the theater and passed the
gymnasium. The visit to Ephesus was a long one so details
I'll leave to the history books. Suffice to say it was an
amazing day and one I'll never forget. Ephesus
visit complete, we ran the gauntlet of the vendors! Many bought
knick-knacks. We then scattered to the museums, others to
the hotel for a wash and brush up. Dusty feet, faces and hair,
I'm sure! After this cool off time, down to the town to do,
guess what, MORE SHOPPING! |
